The Surf Art Story
I (Sharon) first became involved with surf art after attending my brother-in-law, Greg Noll's, birthday party on Oahu in 1997. Greg's wife, my sister, Laura, always said she would get me into the surfing "business" one day. After the party, where I met so many interesting and very fun people, I started Surf Art, etc. Now, over the years, and more birthday parties later, I was able to spend more time with my sister and Greg and the rest of their (our) family. This includes their "family" of friends--what cool people! This is fun--buy some posters - keep me in business. Thank you.
Greg Noll, a.k.a. Da Bull
Pioneer big-wave surfer, Greg Noll, was called Da Bull by his fellow surfers for his stubborn, straightforward and aggressive approach to the sport. His approach to life in general wasn’t much different. His life revolved around surfing and everything the sport engendered. He made surfboards and surf films. He pioneered modern surfing in Australia. He discovered Mazatlan as a surf spot. He was the first to ride the fearsome waves at Waimea Bay and Outside Pipeline on Oahu’s North Shore. He brawled and caroused with men, charmed and entertained women.Above all, he was Da Bull, one of the bravest and best of the big wave riders of his or anyone’s era.
Part of Greg Noll’s motivation for riding big surf came from the camaraderie he enjoyed with his elite and rowdy peers. The other part came from with: "I just wanted to ride a bigger wave than anybody. I wanted to do something none of the other guys could or would do." One day in December 1969, he did just that when a storm from the Aleutians drove monstrous swells onto the shores of Oahu and created a day like no other at Makaha Point. There, Greg Noll met the wave that had beckoned but eluded him for twenty years.
Hawaii State Senator and former World Surfing Champion, Fred Hemmings, was out in the water at Makaha that same day. Afterward, he described Greg Noll’s experience as "a death-wish wave. If it had been anyone else in that situation, he would have died."
One day Greg Noll gave up his reputation, his business and his lifestyle and disappeared into the Alaskan wilderness. He later reappeared in Northern California as skipper of a sixty-five foot steel hulled commercial fishing vessel. In his mind, he never "quit" surfing: "Surfing is a feeling that never leaves you. I’m still part of the ocean. I just turned my attention to other challenges."
Noll challenges anyone who wants to know what the life of a big wave surfer is really like to "get a board and paddle out there, point your board down the face of a grinder and make a commitment. That’s where you find the truth."
Even until recently, Greg lived in Northern California, and travelled all over the world. He started making boards again...really beautiful replicas and originals. There’s no comparison. Sadly, Greg passed in 2021. We miss him dearly.